3.30.2008

Buenos Aires, Argentina: Part One

In the novel Antigua Vida Mia by Marcela Serrano, main character Violeta states, upon returning to Chile after traveling through Latin America, “Tres cosas me han impresionado muy negativamente de este país al volver, el Nescafé, la ausencia de calefacción central y el machismo, y en ese orden” ( Three things have had a negative impression on me upon returning to this country, Nescafé, the absence of central heating and machismo, and in that order).

We love Chile, but it was so nice to have some real espresso in Buenos Aires! We will just have to see if there's central heating when we return in May and we will refrain from commenting on the machismo... :)

Buenos Aires was better than we could have imagined, cafes on every corner with real espresso, international cuisine, nightlife, art and fashion, amazing architecture. Kind of like New York City with more Latin flare!

Here's Jack in our first hostel, El Portal del Sur, a 6 story building in the middle of down town, one block off Avenida de Mayo, with a 100 year old wrought iron elevator and a roof top terrace bar overlooking the city.
Jack always knows where the onda is...


La Casa Rosada- the pink house - is the presidential palace- just outside is the Plaza de Mayo where for decades the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo have marched, every Thursday at 3pm in a silent protest of the "desaparecidos" - the thousands of people that "disappeared" during the Dirty War. Unfortunately, after we had practically ran there to catch a glimpse of the marching moms, we realized they have officially retired! But we did get to see a bunch of tourists crowded around 3 mothers sitting on a park bench, snapping away pictures like the paparazzi...



Down at the other end of the Avenida de Mayo is the congress building- see Jack on the bench?


We stayed in the San Telmo neighborhood, which is known for its countless antique shops. Check out the cool vintage toy store we stumbled across!



El Federal was a bar/cafe right next to our second hostel that served a mean cheese omelet and, of course, great espresso!



Typical Buenos Aires graphic art on the wall at El Federal


Florida Pedestrian Street



Recoleta Cemetery


Evita Peron Duarte's tomb at Recoleta Cemetery


Tomb dedicated to a 17 year old daughter (and her dog) in Recoleta cemetery


More amazing sites at the Recoleta Cemetery




Many of the family tombs had broken windows and you could see right in, very creepy but at the same time beautiful


La Boca neighborhood is known for its brightly painted buildings and Tango dancing, but it was pretty much just a tourist trap.








Live tango in La Boca




This is what we'd been missing! Real espresso and delicious media lunas (half moons = croissants)



We spent a lot of time shopping around at all the hand made clothing boutiques. Artists come together and rent out a space, often times a bar or loft, to sell their one of a kind pieces.


1 comment:

Lindsay said...

When I travelled to Argentina, I had the best time of my life. The neighbourhood I liked the most was Recoleta.
Marble buildings reminiscent of Paris and green leafy streets make up the main impression of this area. Avenida Alvear, crowned by the city's most famous hotel, the Alvear Palace, is lined with luxurious showrooms (some are in buildings that were once the homes of the city's wealthiest residents) from the most impressive designers. The Polo Ralph Lauren store is particularly worth a venture inside. There is no convenient subway access to this neighborhood.
The Buenos Aires Real Estate I got was located there, so I was near to all of the tourist attractions.
Cheers,
Lindsay