6.30.2008

Snowboarding in the Andes

After almost 11 months in Chile we decided it was finally time to get up to the Andean ski resorts surrounding Santiago and get a taste of the high mountain snow that they are known for.

Our first day was at the area's fanciest resort, Valle Nevado, located some 3,000 meters above sea level! What really struck us as odd was the complete lack of trees. We are so used to Mt. Hood's Timberline Resort where trees are abundant (hence the name). It felt a little odd to see the bald, white slopes of the Andes.



A group of beautiful Siberian Huskies including a very cute pup were on display at the lodge.


Jo on the slopes lookin' stylee in her snow gear!


Amazing view!


We settled on a night at the Refugio Aleman, which is located near the foot of the Colorado ski resort. The Refugio is a humble but comfortable mountain hostel who's decent rates made our mountain excursion much more affordable than a night at the fancy mountain resort hotels.

Here is Jo in front of the in house bar at the Refugio.


A view from the hostel. In the background you can see the blanket of smog that covers Santiago on a daily basis. Yikes!


The next day we decided to stay close to the hostel and hit the slopes at Colorado, a bit smaller resort that was accessible by t-bar from about a block away from the hostel.

Jo has had some bad experiences with T-bars over the years. Here she is conquering the beast.


Here we are!

6.22.2008

One last trip to Maitencillo!


Here are some pictures from our weekend trip to the beach town of Maitencillo, just north of Vina del Mar. We stayed in a cabin at the rustic and whimsical Cabanas Hermansen with a group of friends to celebrate Margaret's 29th birthday (wink wink).
We wowed our Chilean friends with s'mores and veggie burgers!

Daniel (in the trees), back of Mickey's head, Clayton, Jo and Margaret on the deck.


Margaret and Clay in front of the wood stove


Jack and Mickey discussing music and politics


Jo being impish.


Margaret posing for the camara


Don't worry, he had some help with that...


Clay, Jack, Mickey, Margaret and Daniel - our Chilean tribe!


View from the cabin


Jack having a little too much fun...


We are so going to miss these guys!

6.20.2008

Mendoza, Argentina

After hearing so much about the city of Mendoza, Argentina and the legendary highway that crosses through the Andes between Chile and Argentina, we finally decided to book our bus tickets and make a weekend out of it. Our friends Margaret, fellow Fulbrighter, and Carly, English teacher, came with us. In order to get the best view from the double-decker bus, Jo cleverly booked the front seats on the second level, giving us an incredible and at times breath- taking perspective of the peaks and sheer drop offs as we wound our way though the Andes.
The first part of the journey took us through a fairly arid landscape as we began to make our ascent in to the mountains along the former Trans-Andean Railway which used to run between Los Andes, Chile and Mendoza, Argentina.




One of the hydro-electric systems that we saw along the way, pumping water from the Andes.


Soon we were surrounded by snowy peaks as we made our way up, up, up and up again. Check out the 20-something switchbacks the freeway makes in the background of this picture! (Just ignore the avalanche to the left of the switchbacks, mom)


Those of us living in Chile have come to expect a homeless dog on every corner, so I suppose we shouldn't have been surprised to find one at the top of the Andes. Actually there were about 20 living at the border station. Carly fed them our apples before we crossed the border.


Here we are at the border posing while we wait for our bus to head in to the Customs Building.
For many on board, this was their first experience with snow! Everyone was taking pictures holding big chunks of it, smiling proudly.


Lake + Mountains= beautiful! Here we are in Argentina.


The landscape on the Argentine side is both stark and beautiful with sheer canyon walls and a large
desert flood plain surrounding the Rio Colorado.
Mendoza is situated in an arid semi-desert region of Andean foothills and high plains. The city itself, however, features tree lined boulevards, tons of amazing restaurants and a very accessible tourist infrastructure. There are plenty of historic buildings, a few good artisan markets and plenty of travelers who’ve come to Mendoza to take advantage of Argentina’s relatively low prices and the great selections of wine and food and nearby outdoor activities.
The first few days included lots of shopping, tons of great food, several well priced bottles of Argentina's finest and a hand selected cheese plate that included some of the finest queso that we've had since our departure from the US. (Chile has 1 kind of cheese called by 4 different names)

Our Sunday outing included a stop at a stellar pizza restaurant called Un Rincon De La Boca (the Boca is a famous neighborhood in Buenos Aires known for great Italian food) where we chowed down on two amazing pizzas. Fresh mozzarella cheese on a thick focaccia-like dough with a sprinkling of delicious toppings such as green olives and roasted peppers.


The now defunct train station that used to run straight through town where we saw a group of guys working on what appeared to be an impromptu Argentine asado (bbq).


On our way to visit the cities famous San Martin Park (one of the largest city parks in the world) we came across this rather odd advertisement. Jo, Carly and Margaret couldn't resist the urge to get a memorable picture.


Jo, Margaret and I in one of the cities pedestrian malls.


Here we are posing in front of the Monument dedicated to the Army of the Andes in San Martin Park at the top of Cerro de la Gloria (Glory Hill ), the cities highest point, where you can catch a view of the city and the surrounding landscape.


The monument represents the fight to gain independence from Spain. It is pretty impressive in terms of monuments.


On the way back from the park we took a detour to check out a few of the city's historic homes, some of which appear to be straight out of the Adams Family.




Carly and Margaret posing along a typical tree lined street.


All the streets are lined with these drainage ditches designed to divert the occasional rain storms that suddenly overtake the generally dry city.


Sunday night we feasted on an incredible Mexican dinner, the first good Mexican grub we've had in almost a year at Cielito Lindo restaurant. Here we are full and happy.


Here are some pics from the journey home. This is looking back at Argentina as we head towards the border.


We got a glimpse of Chilean ski Resort Portillo, which features an Andean lake and reportedly some of South America's best skiing. We hope to find out for ourselves before we head back to the US!


The highway is covered in several avalanche tunnels. Notice that the ski lift and slope go right over the tunnel!


6.18.2008

Making empanadas and street dogs

We recently learned how to make empanadas from scratch from Jo's exchange partner Veronica's mom. So we thought we'd give it a try.


Here is Jack with his finished product!


Our plethora of ingredients.


Our friend Carly knocking out a vegetarian empanada.


Who said empanadas can't be sexy? That's Margaret.


Jack and his band of street dogs, who followed us and "protected" us from cars and other dogs for about 10 blocks until we got in a taxi!

6.16.2008

Back to Valparaiso with Nicolas



Valparaiso is Vina del Mar's sister city, just minutes down the coast. It is home to one of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda's homes and was named a world heritage site due to its distinct architecture and unique ascensores (huge cable cars pulled on massive cables built into the numerous steep hillsides used as a form of public transportation). Needless to say, we have fallen in love with Valpo's eccentricity and bohemian charm. Jo's colleague Nicolas took us exploring once again through Valpo's hillsides. Although it is very rough around the edges, Valpo has a unique beauty that truly captures the imagination.


Jo and Nicolas on one of the typical narrow, cobblestone walkways. Up to the left is one of the original rest stops on what for centuries was the only road between Santiago and Valparaiso.


Colorful apartments on Cerro Arrayan


Notice how steep the street is!


Typical stairway in Valparaiso- many houses are only accessible by stairs, making renovation nearly impossible.


A view of the Palacio Baburizza, home to the Museo de Bellas Artes, and the Ascensor (cable car) El Peral


The colorful cerros (hills) of Valparaiso


A diamond in the rough


Valparaiso is famous for its graffiti art


A cloudy day in Valparaiso