Over the past month we’ve gone out on two Sunday tours of Valparaiso with Jo’s co-worker Nicholas, an energetic history teacher who has lived in the historic port his entire life. It was really interesting to learn about Valpo from a non-tourist perspective and see aspects of the city that we would have never seen alone.
Our first day out we visited the neighborhoods where Nicholas grew up. Apparently the city has changed a lot in that it isn’t as clean or safe as in years past, however, the landscape and architecture has been left untouched. When you look beyond the rusty roofs, the broken glass, and the graffiti you get a glimpse of the real Valpo, an eclectic mix of poor and middle class thrown together with no regard for social hierarchies amongst the seemingly endless cerros (hills). We tromped up and down the hills, explored buildings literally built into the hillsides and saw pieces of Valpo’s past and present.
An old wooden foot bridges now closed.

A 5 story series of residencies built in to the hillside, typical Valpo construction.

A historic mansion with vibrant color

The reconstruction of much of the city would be extremely expensive by today’s standards. The hills, the narrow crowded streets or in some cases no street access at all means that in many cases manual labor is the only option. These 3 to 4 foot concrete footers are a good example. They stop the hills from encroaching on the residencies below.

A strange and often surprising landscape

Some of the graffiti in the city is an eyesore but colorful pieces such as these often brighten up the landscape.

The colorful barrio Prefecto Lazero, traditionally inhabited by politicians and policemen



A view of the city from next to the Ascensor Florida

For 200 pesos you can ride the ascensor rather than trudge up this imposing hill.

Jo crossing one of the newer footbridges.

For a few bucks you can take a boat ride or “lancha” and see a little bit of a working harbor.

A sea lion or “lobo” just chillin’ on an abandoned boat.

This is how they repair the huge cargo and naval ships.

Nicholas and Jo

An impressive wooden door near the harbor.