Cochamo Valley with the Anti-Tabano Task Force

After our experience with the tabanos in Chiloe (extra large and super annoying horse flies), we changed our plans to go backpacking at a park near Puerto Varas and decided to head further east to Cochamo Valley, hoping for fewer tabanos. Regardless, we prepared for the worst by buying long-sleeved white shirts and leaving all shiny objects behind. (supposedly they are attracted to dark colors and shiny things) On the bus ride to Cochamo town, our fears of tabano attacks escalated as we passed through Ensenada and Vicente Perales park, bearing witness to helpless gringos swatting wildly as they exited the bus.

We reached the sleepy little town of Cochamo on the banks of the Reloncavi estuary and immediately began searching for someone who could drive us up the gravel road to the park entrance. We quickly met Mauricio who agreed to drive us the 10 km for a fair price.

Cochamo valley is absolutely beautiful, but the unmarked trail was pure hell: 4 ½ hours of muddy horse trenches and multiple water crossings. Luckily most of the trail was in the forest, protecting us from the hot sun and merciless tabanos. It was all worth it, however, when we got our first glimpse of the crystal clear river and stark granite cliffs surrounding the valley.

Our plans to camp dissolved when we saw the swarming tabanos and cow pies in the shadeless camping area, so we quickly crossed the river in hopes of finding refuge in the Refugio Cochamo, run by a gringo/Argentine couple. Check out the photo of the "carrito" that we used to cross the river. The river was swarming with tabanos and while taking pictures of me on the carrito, Jo unknowingly captured a tabano in the photo.

The Refugio from a distance

We were the only guests there and had a relaxing and restful afternoon, playing with Clementina and Manzanilla, the house kittens.

Chillin' out on the porch

The next morning we awoke to a mist-covered rain forest after suffering through an intolerably hot and humid night.

We took advantage of the cool weather (tabanos only come out when it’s sunny!) to do some exploring. We found the natural water slide and numerous waterfalls and pools. We took a dip in the freezing-cold glacial water and took a few trips down the water slide.

Jo doing her best frog pose.



Taking a dip in the ice cold river!



One of the bridge crossings used by rock climbers to access the surrounding cliffs.

We spent the rest of the afternoon playing cards and sharing a box of red wine. The next day we left early, met Mauricio at the trail head, and caught the bus back to Puerto Varas. Overall our experience in the valley was amazing!